They say, “never ask a lady with a winged eyeliner why she was late!” :)
I’ve got in a few requests these past few weeks, around what is the best way to draw a perfectly sharp winged eyeliner. Let me start off by saying that you are not alone in the challenge! I’ve even heard it from some of the most famous, global makeup artists, that it is one of the more difficult items to master. However, all hope is not lost… the secret to it is to practice, practice and then practice some more!!!
People have been very innovative when it comes to applying eyeliner. I’ve seen people use shadow-shields, tape and even spoons!! However, I will share the way, which I’m most comfortable with. There are two stages below, the first is Prep (determining the products and brushes to use), and then second is Execution (what to do)
As a first step, you would need to determine which brush you are going to use. You can either use a thin angle brush or the pointed eyeliner brush. Both work well, and so the choice of brush is a matter of comfort level. However, I personally like using the angle brush for the wing, and the pointed one for the rest of the eye as it gives me more precision control.
Secondly, you need to determine what product you will be using. You can use black eye-shadow, gel eyeliners or liquid eye-liners. I personally find gel eyeliners the easiest to use, as they have a very soft yet controllable texture. If you decide to go with just eye-shadow, you will need to have a small water glass ready next to you, as you will need to dip your brush into the water and then pick up some eye-shadow so that you can create a liquid-like texture. This method is also recommended if you are just practicing at home, as you can easily remove it. Gel eyeliners and liquid ones tend to be more long-lasting.
For demonstration, I have used the black gel eyeliner from MAC, followed by liquid eyeliner from Inglot to intensify the color.
The steps are demonstrated in the image below, followed by a detailed description:
Using your brush, draw a line that will be the edge of your wing. As a reference, imagine you are extending your lower lash line towards the end of your eyebrow. You can make this long for a more dramatic affect. Note: If you find, you are not drawing a straight line it could be because you have stretched/pulled out the skin around your eyes while drawing. When you let go, it goes back to a different shape.
Starting close to tip of the end of the line, draw another line towards your lashline, so that you create a triangular shape. Note: If you want to make sure you have a sharper edge, do not start from the tip of the line, as you will make it thicker. Make sure you start just a little bit below it.
Fill in the inside of the triangle you created.
Starting from the inside corner of your eye, draw the line outwards towards the wing you created. The thickness of the line depends on your personal preference, and should follow your eye shape. Since, I have round eyes, I prefer having a thin line
Once done, if you would like to extend the wing, just use your same brush with whatever product is left on it, and just lightly pull it outwards. It is best to use a pointed brush for this. You can also use black eye-shadow to smoothen the line out.
Go over it with a liquid eyeliner and then set it in with black eye-shadow to make it more vibrant and long-lasting. Complete the look with mascara or a set of false eye-lashes for a more dramatic affect.
So, what if you thicken the edge by-mistake, or you go out of line. Don’t worry all is not lost. You can simply, use a bit of concealer or foundation on a flat brush and then swipe it clean as shown in the picture below.
Make sure you wipe the brush every time you get black eyeliner on it, so that you don’t smudge your face. Alternatively, if the mess is to big, just take some makeup remover on a cotton-bud and try to clean it out. The only problem in this case, you might remove some of your under-lying making and so you might need to repeat it! You will get better with practice, I guarantee it!
Well, thats it for now, hope yu found it useful! Let me know if you have any feedback or questions!